Discover Edinburgh like a local
Insider's Guide to Edinburgh
Discover Edinburgh like a local
The Royal Mile. Arthur’s Seat. Greyfriars’ Kirk. Without even setting foot in Edinburgh, the Scottish capital evokes fairytale charm with a healthy dose of mystery. Storytellers from Robert Louis Stevenson to Irvine Welsh to J.K. Rowling have called this beautiful city home. And if you know where to look, traces of their imaginations—and the mysterious legacy their words have woven into the city’s cobblestone streets—can still be found around many a shadowy corner.
Edinburgh was my home for two years and experiencing the city as both a local and through a traveler’s lens never gets old. I learned many of the city’s best kept secrets, which visitors might miss if they only spend a night or two. Edinburgh rewards those who wander, who linger, and who are curious about all things mysterious—even macabre.
In this guide, I share the best Edinburgh has to offer for travelers year-round, but if the spooky season particularly calls to you? Auld Reekie might just win your heart like it did mine.
What to See and Do
The first thing to understand about Edinburgh is the geography. The Old Town (and by old, we mean 12th century old) sits cradled between an extinct volcano and an outcropping of volcanic rock. Today, these landmarks are called Arthur’s Seat and Castle Rock, respectively. Edinburgh Castle was built over centuries atop Castle Rock, and the town developed along the (roughly) one-mile stretch (hence the name the Royal Mile) between the castle at the top, and what is now Holyrood Palace and Park at the bottom.
This topography gave medieval Edinburgh natural borderlines and barriers, creating a walled city that was forced to grow upward before growing outward in the Georgian era. Arther’s Seat overlooks Holyrood Park— and while it’s an ambitious trek to the top, the views are worth the effort. Old Town is hilly, with narrow staircases leading up to the Royal Mile, and many quaint alleyways (or ‘closes’ as they’re called in Scots) moving off the royal mile like a spider’s web. It’s a civil engineer’s nightmare of intersecting streets, bridges, and lanes, and Google Maps can only help so much. All of which to say—it’s the perfect place to get lost.
From the medieval Old Town to the gritty-turned-hip port neighborhood of Leith, to the Georgian buildings of New Town, travelers needn’t walk far to experience the iconic landmarks and hidden gems of Edinburgh—the Athens of the North.
Calton Hill
Begin your exploration with a wee walk and discover why Edinburgh was given the moniker Athens of the North in the first place. Calton Hill sits just outside of Old Town Edinburgh. A staircase and gentle hill brings curious travelers and locals alike to one of the best views of the city’s skyline, pulling visitors from the urban heart of the city into a windswept natural landscape in mere minutes. A Scottish version of Athens’s Acropolis, alongside a few other monuments from the 19th century, pepper the hilltop, giving the hill a beautiful but eerie backdrop.
Royal Mile
The widest street and beating heart of Old Town Edinburgh, the regal Royal Mile is a natural starting point for any visitor. Find your bearings first on a Secrets of the Royal Mile walking tour, then step back in time with a visit to Edinburgh Castle. Wander down the closes for some picture-perfect views, and—if you dare—join a haunted Edinburgh tour after dark.
Dean Village
Escape the hustle and bustle of the city center and wander to Dean Village, a 15-minute stroll to one of the city’s most picturesque and historic neighborhoods. What seems like just a quaint village on paper is one of the most beautiful corners of the city. Follow along the Water of Leith path—stop for photos, detour to the National Gallery, or simply sit and enjoy the views.
Victoria Street & the Grassmarket
Victoria Street, supposedly the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley, brings fans from all over the wizarding world. The winding street with colorful storefronts (only a few are Harry Potter-themed gift shops) make for wonderful photos. Deep dive into all things Harry Potter on a themed walking tour, and afterwards, land in the Grassmarket, where lively pubs line the square. Grab a pint and don’t forget to look up for a unique view of Edinburgh Castle looming above.
What to Taste
Edinburgh is the most international city I’ve ever lived in, and the magic of this melting pot capital city shows in its cuisine. From Indian to Italian and everything in between, there’s always a culinary adventure to be had. Sample all kinds of Scottish eats on a foodie tour, but make sure to try these iconic Scottish bites and sips:
Haggis
Be brave! The traditional food of a Burns Night celebration can be sampled in a variety of ways—fried appetizer bites, to a haggis stuffed chicken entrée, or for a major culture clash: a haggis burrito.
Steak and Ale Pie
Nothing warms the belly on a cold Scottish night like a steak and ale pie. A heartier version of chicken pot pie, there’s nothing better than a savory pie, hot from the oven, served in a cozy pub. (Pint not included but highly recommended.
Scotch Whisky
Even if whisky has never been your go-to libation, you must try it at its source. The rugged and varied Scottish landscape imbues a wide array of flavors in the whisky, so you’re bound to find a flavor profile you like. To learn more about the proud heritage and history of whisky (in addition to sipping a wee dram or two), the Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile or the Johnnie Walker Experience across the way on Princes Street are worth a visit.
Cultural Events
Edinburgh is a festival city, through and through. Any month of the year you’ll find celebrations of storytelling, music, food, and more. However, there are a few globally recognized events where the whole city is buzzing—it’s an energy that I haven’t found anywhere else.
Edinburgh Festival Fringe
Edinburgh is home to the world’s largest arts festival, running four solid weeks in August. Thousands of performances of all genres grace stages and pop-up venues across the city, and visitors can find plenty of free or under-£10-a-ticket entertainment. Many recognizable artists cut their teeth at the fringe, from Judi Dench to Robin Williams to Pheobe Waller-Bridge, just to name a few!
Royal Military Tattoo
If the Fringe isn’t enough excitement, the Castle esplanade transforms every August into an epic stadium, where a world-wide military music spectacle takes place every night. Get your fix of bagpipes, highland dancing, fireworks and more, all emanating out of the beautiful backdrop of the castle.
Hogmanay
Not a typo, but the Scots name for their New Year’s Celebration. Taking place over the course of three days, Hogmanay begins with a torchlight processional through old town and up to Calton Hill, a beautiful nod to Scotland’s pagan past. Hogmanay culminates on New Years Eve itself, with live music and an incredible firework display over Edinburgh Castle. We’d expect nothing less from the home of ‘Auld Lang Syne’.
Insider Tips
A city as old and as storied as Edinburgh is bound to be home to a spooky story. From haunted cemeteries to the real-life inspiration of Jekyll and Hyde, Auld Reekie does not shy away from its morbid past:
Tour The Real Mary King’s Close, an underground walking tour of preserved streets and homes dating back 400 years.
Those with a strong stomach can visit the Surgeons’ Hall Museum, paying tribute to Edinburgh as the first medical school, with plenty of… specimens, shall we say, to learn about.
For a good old Scottish cemetery, there’s the 16th-century Greyfriars Kirkyard adjacent to a church (or kirk, in Scots) and home to countless hauntings. Pay close attention to some of the headstones, as you may recognize some of the names J.K. Rowling borrowed, like McGonagall, Moody, and Riddle, just to name a few. If you’re feeling brave, visit at night—and ask your guide about the Poltergeist.
Pay tribute to Edinburgh’s famous writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson at the beautiful Writer’s Museum, tucked away down a close off the Royal Mile. The story of Deacon Brodie, a well-respected 18th century Edinburgh local who led a secret life of crime, inspired Steveson’s famous novella, Jekyll and Hyde. Toast to the writers and Deacon Brodie himself at his tavern on the Royal Mile.
Best Time to Visit
Cultural events like the Fringe are worth experiencing but book early and be prepared for the crowds—the population of Edinburgh more than doubles in the month of August. To have the city more to yourself, I recommend visiting in the spring or fall. Scotland, famously, can have ‘four seasons in a day’ regardless of which month you visit. Dress in layers, get yourself a tartan scarf, and don’t let any dreich (dreary) weather hold you back.
Common Misconception
Ignore the assumptions about food in the UK being bland and let me prove you wrong—Edinburgh has a bourgeoning food scene to rival any city. From cozy pub eats to fine-dining seafood, whisky distilleries to swoon-worthy bakeries—Edinburgh is a foodie haven, and there are plenty of tours available that will leave you with a full belly and better appreciation of Scottish culinary tradition and culture.
Culture and Etiquette Tip
While Scotland is still technically part of the United Kingdom, a significant percentage of the population of Scotland prioritize their Scottish identity, viewing their history and culture separately from the United Kingdom, and don’t consider themselves English.
Embrace public transportation—the bus system in Edinburgh is extensive and affordable. Plus, most bus routes utilize double decker buses, giving riders an epic view of the city center and surrounding neighborhoods.
“Cheers” is a universal greeting in Scotland—it’s used more often than thank you and stands in for hello and goodbye. Think of it as the Scottish version of aloha.
Book It & Book It Now!
If Edinburgh isn’t currently on your travel radar, I hope this insight into my favorite city in the world moves it on to your list. Beyond the capital city, the Scottish Highlands, islands, and cities like Glasgow and Inverness have their own distinct feel and flavor. With Edinburgh as a home base, you can explore the best Scotland has to offer and I guarantee you’ll come home ready to plan your next Scottish adventure. With that said, cheers!
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